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An impossible task
When I don’t know where to begin, I write a list. That is where I find myself today in attempting to distill the magic of Provence into a digestible post in your inbox.
I’ve written much about Paris over the years, including my Practical Guide to Paris. Like Hemingway wrote, “if you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.” I became me living in Paris in my early twenties, and she is always with me.
I struggle to write about Provence, the southeast region of France, my home. It is where I was born, where my first memories were made, and it is the one place we always returned to throughout all the moves and changes of my childhood in a French-American household. The sounds and smells and tastes are a part of my biology; I yearn for them deep in my bones. When I am there, I am home. It is my sacred place.
People ask me for recommendations when they visit Provence. This thrills me! You have not experienced France if you have never adventured beyond Paris. I want each person to experience Provence. The problem is, I want everyone to experience my Provence. This is impossible. It is also selfish of me!
Finding your Provence
If you are lucky enough to visit Provence, you will find your Provence. This list is insufficient in many ways — it is my attempt at the impossible task of capturing a spirit, an ésprit. But, we must start somewhere. I am happy to finally give these ideas a permanent home online. I hope you use them and feel free to share them with your friends and family.
As I mentioned with my Paris Guide, a part of me hesitates to publish these guides to Finance That Feels. The other part of me believes that travel and place are powerful forces that shape meaning and identity and how we relate to money. These guides are as much about personal discovery as they are about travel. They explore a culture renowned for joie de vivre over consumerism. The guides reflect on what we might learn from the French about living well.
So, before we begin, slow down. Now slow down again.
Ok, we’re ready. On y va?
My Provence, A to Z
L’Apéro — a daily ritual among family and friends: a pre-dinner drink and nibbles to mark the end of the work day and relax into the evening. Usually enjoyed outside.
Aix, Arles & Avignon — three wildly different, non-negotiable towns to visit. Everyone talks about the markets in Aix…I prefer the markets in Arles. Avignon is the most impressive, like in an awe-inspiring way, town of them all.
Les Baux — an incredible village carved out of the side of a mountain. The caves are open to the public and often display art and light shows that you won’t see anywhere else.
Les Calanques & Cassis — there are two types of Provençal town: inland and coastal. Cassis is the most charming coastal town in Provence. Les Calanques are the rock cliffs that surround it. Boating around les calanques is at the top of my list every time we are in Provence.
Cigales — cicadas. The soundtrack to Provence.
Déjeuner — lunch, which, in Provence, means two hours mid-day. It will always be a pre-fixe menu: entrée (appetizer), plat (main), dessert + boisson (drink).
L’essentiel — in France, everything is a matter of essence. The French know how to find the good thing – taste, smell, sight, feel – and distill it until that’s all that’s left. The luxury is the simplicity, and I do believe this is what most of us are trying to find when we visit Provence. So, that is my #1 tip for Provence: Keep it simple. It will be glorious.
Fermé - closed. Beware evenings, Sundays, and Mondays. In Provence, most stores, including groceries, stick to old-school opening hours. I can’t tell you how many times we’ve gone to the grocery store in the evening, only to find it closed. We are not in America! Plan accordingly.
Flâner — to wander without purpose or destination; a legitimate use of time and the best way to experience a Provençal village.
Goûter à la vie — taste life. Slow down. Smell the roses.
Gordes — the one town I am dying to visit, still.
Herbes de Provence et huile d’olive — Provençal seasoning and olive oil. These make great souvenirs. I think visitors are surprised by all the olive trees!
Île de Porquerolles — a car-free island. Take a ferry from Hyères and rent bikes on the island. Bike from beach to beach. Hike to the top. Or, like we did most recently: Charter a catamaran to the island and hang out on the water all day.
Je ne sais quoi — a certain something. Like l’essentiel, I believe this is what we are trying to capture when we visit France or buy French products. It is a cultural fluency, a fluency in the moment, and this can’t be bought.
Kir Royale - possibly the only K word in French! A perfect drink for l’apéro —- Champagne and crème de cassis (blackcurrant liqueur).
Lourmarin — we fell in love with this village when we took our family last year.
Marseille — possibly the most culturally complex city in France. Spend your time in Le Panier, Vieux Port, and Place aux Huiles. Visit Notre Dame de la Garde, the most unique basilica I’ve ever been in. If you like history, take the ferry to Chateau d’If. For the literary types, this is where the Count of Monte Cristo takes place.
Mas — Provençal word for farmhouse. My favorite way to experience Provence, if I am not at my grandparents’ home, is to rent a mas in the countryside.
Nougat — a traditional sweet treat in Provence. Also makes a great souvenir (make sure it’s from a local artisan).
Occitan — the cultural and linguistic heritage in Provence. The beauty brand L’Occitane is a direct reference to this.
Ocre - the color I think of when I think of Provence.
Pastis & Petanque — the iconic drink and ball game of Provence. Visit Provence and you will undoubtedly pass people playing pétanque in the public courts at all hours of the day.
Quartier — neighborhood. In Marseille my favorite is Le Panier. Aix is built around quartiers — each organized around a plaza (usually with a water fountain!) Place des Cardeurs and Place de l’Hotel de Ville are great to rest your legs, enjoy l’apéro or prendre un café.
Ratatouille & Rosé — the regional vegetable dish, and you will drink the best rosé of your life in Provence.
Santons, Savon de Marseille & Sel — my favorite souvenirs. Santons are hand carved and painted nativity figurines. I get mine from Santons Fouque in Aix. I load up on savon de Marseille (soap) and sel (salt) to last me the year when I visit.
TGV — French high-speed train. To get to Provence, I always fly into Paris and take the TGV to Avignon or Aix. This allows me to bookend my trip in Paris (😍) and see the beautiful countryside. It’s only a three hour ride and trains are equipped with a café/bar.
Un café — Probably 50% of our time in Provence is having un café (espresso) on a terrace and people watching.
Voitures et Villages — you must rent a car (voiture) to visit the villages — and this is where the charm of Provence really lives.
Winding roads - Provence is rural and most roads are very winding. Bring dramamine if you are sensitive.
X for Aix en Provence — As a child I thought it was weird that there is a town called X that my family always talked about. That town is Aix-en-Provence. It is pronounced X.
Y - The funniest letter in the French language and not many words that begin with it! Pronounced in French, igrec (“ee-grek”), means “Greek i.” France derives much of its linguistic heritage from the Romans and therefore not many words begin with the Greek i.
Zéro — the amount of worry and stress you will carry when you are in Provence.
That is my attempt to capture Provence. It is the place of my first and oldest and dearest memories. It is a place where time disappears and also begins.
Bon voyage ❤️
If you enjoy this work, please give it a ❤️ down below. That goes a long way in helping Finance That Feels reach new audiences (and gives me a huge moral boost!!) Thank you for being here.
DISCLAIMER
The opinions of Emilie Hill are solely her personal opinions and not necessarily the opinions of her employer. Social content provided by Emilie is for educational purposes only and does not constitute investment advice or an offer to sell or a solicitation to buy any security.
Thank you, Emilie! Love this!