Finance That Feels explores the psychology and mindset behind our financial decisions—asking why we are the way we are with money—and offers tools to help you align your money with your biggest dreams and deepest values. For more regular updates, follow @emiliedayanhill on Instagram.
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About this post:
Yesterday I returned home from a week in France, including 36 hours in Paris. On Instagram several readers wrote to me about upcoming Paris trips and for my suggestions. Given the Paris requests, I decided to publish my Practical Guide to Paris, the tips and recommendations I’ve been sharing with family, friends, and friends of friends since 2013. I update the guide annually after my Paris visits. This update is fresh off the plane, and I am sharing it publicly for the first time.
If you’re in a hurry (but I hope not, as you’ll read below!), there is a link to a downloadable pdf at the end. No narrative, que des bonnes adresses.
In a few weeks I will share a Provence Guide, for the same reasons as above. It is my familial home and where I’ve spent the most time. I am happy to finally give these guides a permanent home online. I hope you use them and feel free to share them with your friends and family.
If you’re not here for France guides, know that I’ll resume my typical posts in a few weeks. I do invite you to continue reading. A part of me hesitated publishing the guides to Finance That Feels. The other part of me believes that travel and place are powerful forces that shape meaning and identity and how we relate to money. These guides are as much about personal discovery as they are about travel. They explore a culture renowned for joie de vivre over consumerism. The guides reflect on what we might learn from the French about living well.
Alors, on n’y va?
Bienvenu à Paris
Should you find yourself in Paris, walk. Walk along the vibrant banks of the River Seine, the hallowed steps of Sacré Coeur, the dusty paths of Jardin de Luxembourg, and in the formidable shadows of Notre Dame. Walk in Paris and get lost. That is where you will find the magic: The transcendent silence in an ancient chapel; The powder sweet smell of a sun-lit alley drenched in roses; the impossibly lush grass in a secret park; The sensuous thrill at le marché. The fact of being lost exists only within our self-imposed confines of time and space. Paris teases our temporal and physical perception. Paris invites you to get lost.
Practical tips for getting around
You will get lost. If you are pressed for time, hop on the Metro. Entry points to the Metro exist every few blocks. Le Metro can get you anywhere in Paris. Unless it’s late at night or terrible weather, I opt for Metro over taxi or Ubers due to traffic. The tiny, non-linear streets congest quickly. This can be a frustrating experience when you realize you could have walked to the destination faster. That is why if you find yourself in Paris, walk. If that’s not an option, Metro.
Important:
The RER is a completely different train system from the Metro. RER is what you will take if you are going further outside of the city such as Versailles or the airports. It requires its own ticket. Otherwise, be sure to buy Metro tickets (which are less expensive).
If you are confident on a bike, it can be really fun to ride around the city on a Velib bike. These rentable bikes are widely available around the city.
Logistical Resources:
This is my favorite, free Metro app. You can coordinate your routes and get estimated times. Apparently it only works on iPhone. Here’s the official Paris Metro app.
If you prefer to be old-school, Paris Practique maps are the best (this is what we used in my day!)
It is helpful to have Whatsapp in France. Certain reservations communicate through Whatsapp.
Getting to/from the airport:
Usually you will arrive at Charles de Gaulle (CDG) or Orly (ORY). There are RER lines from these airports to the center of Paris. If you travel lightly (i.e. small bag and no small children) this is a great option. From centre ville you can Metro anywhere.
When we travel as a family, I book private transportation through Shuttle Inter. Depending on how many people and where in the city we are going, it’s about 80-100 euros each way. To me, it’s worth it not to schlep large luggage and small children up and down Metro station stairs (some have escalators and elevators but not all.)
Another option is to book a shuttle bus via Le Bus Direct. Drops off at multiple centre ville locations.
Pointers to make the trip more enjoyable:
Say “bonjour” and “au revoir” or “merci” upon entering and leaving boutiques – don’t be shy if you have a thick accent. Greetings are a big deal in France, and they will appreciate the effort.
Accept that the French do not prioritize efficiency and optimization. Be present and enjoy the moment. The service is slow? The store clerk is too chatty with the customer in front of you? If you are in Paris, it is because you are likely on vacation. Relax.
Savor your meals. Do not be in a hurry to get from one course to the next, or to get the check (in fact, you must ask for the check. They consider it rude to preemptively present it.)
Learn to flâner and terrasser. These iconic Parisian pastimes involve strolling with no particular destination, to simply be and observe (flâner), and enjoying an espresso or apéritif on a café terrace to people watch, read, or gossip with friends (terrasser.)
The French bristle at any hint of hustle or urgency. The culture values presence – enjoying life (joie de vivre) – over productivity.
Respect the locals. Imagine how you would feel if your commute to work or other day-to-day life activities were interrupted because your city is the most visited place on earth. For example, when getting on/off the Metro, don’t block the doors!
Layer your clothes. It doesn’t matter what time of year. The weather can be temperamental.
Ignore scammers. Do not even engage or acknowledge them if they approach you. If they say, “do you speak English?” do not respond, keep walking. It feels rude, but trust me on this.
Tip, some. Tipping is becoming more normal in France. Only up to 10%, though, not the same amounts that we tip in the United States.
Don’t mistake the 1st floor for the 1st floor. What the French call the 1st floor is what Americans call the 2nd floor.
Bring your debit card. Many establishments only accept “carte bleue” i.e. debit cards.
Mind your step. The French love dogs. And they don’t pick dog poop.
Understanding the French (and their maps)
The more I study Paris, I realize the city design reflects how the French think or, rather, why their unique logic seems foreign to most non-French people, specifically those of Anglo-Saxon or Northern European descent. The French tend to think outside of the box, demonstrated by its outsized influence in philosophy, art, food and fashion. I mean, think about cheese. A French person long ago thought, “Hmmm, this rotten milk must be edible! Delicious!” Clear, out-of-the-box thinking. Even France’s greatest scientific contributions result from non-square approaches (such as Louis Pasteur accidentally discovering the concept of vaccination and recognizing the miracle.)
The French think outside of the box because, in fact, there is no box. In France, logic is not linear. The French think in curves and squishy shapes; Circles, and circles upon circles.
Life beats about these circles. All French towns, including Paris, are designed around a centre ville – the epicenter. Everything radiates from that center in expansive circles. The circle is held together by the centripetal force of centre ville. Even neighborhoods within cities have a centre and villages have a centre. The centre ville vitalizes life around it. Cities are not linear or grid-based like in the United States. French cities are circles, and sometimes circles within circles.
Look at the map of Paris below:
To me, it looks like a turtle shell. See how it’s circular, and the city seems to radiate outward from the center?
Paris straddles the River Seine, as pictured above. The city began on the two islands in the river–Île de la Cité and Île Saint-Louis. The Parisii tribe of the Gauls (the Celtic group that inhabited much of what we consider France) were the first known inhabitants of these islands. The Romans overtook the Parisii in 52 BC during Julius Caesar’s Gallic Wars. They called the city Lutetia. By the end of the Roman Empire, the city had been renamed Paris, in honor of its original tribe.
As the city grew, it expanded outward onto land. The numbers on the map represent the arrondissements of Paris. Generally speaking, these are the neighborhoods or districts of the city. In the same way that New Yorkers live in Tribeca, West Village, or Upper East Side, Parisians identify where they live as “in the 1st” or 2nd, etc. Street signs indicate what arrondissement you are in at any given time, as do the last digit (or two) of Paris zip codes. The word, arrondissement, refers to circles: It originates from the French verb arrondir (”to make round” or “round off”.)
The arrondissement organization appears random until you realize it’s in the form of a Fibonacci sequence, like a snail shell. Generally speaking, the lower the arrondissement number, the older the neighborhood (do not be mistaken, in the eyes of an American it is all old.) This is what I mean about expanding circles. There is a method to madness!
The other geographical distinction in Paris is Rive Droite (the neighborhoods above the river) and Rive Gauche (below the river). To help you plan where to spend your time, here’s how I see the city:
Being a Tourist in Paris
The major tourist attractions sit in arrondissements directly along the river, with the exceptions of the l’Opéra and Sacré Coeur. You will very likely spend all your time in the 1st to 8th arrondissements, maybe even 10th and 11th if you’re the adventurous type.
If I only had one day to spend in Paris, here is how I would rank my top 5 arrondissements to visit:
6th – Saint Germain des Près, Jardin de Luxembourg
3rd – Le Marais
7th – Mostly residential but is home to Eiffel Tower, Musée d’Orsay, Musée Rodin, and Les Invalides
2nd – Tuileries, Louvre, l’Orangerie, beautiful walking along the Seine
11th – A new favorite of mine. Less touristy but vibrant with locals, parks, restaurants, shopping.
Where to stay in Paris:
Hotels and Airbnbs abound in Paris. Lodging in any arrondissements from 1 to 11 is fantastic – walkable and easy to get around town. Earlier, I mentioned my favorite arrondissements. I have stayed in hotels and Airbnbs in all of them. Here are a few lodging options that have stood out to us. I will note that my family prioritizes practicality over luxury for Paris hotels.
Hotels:
11th - Hotel L’Antoine. We’ve stayed here most recently and multiple times. Very family friendly. They have suites with adjoining rooms that we use.
1st - Hotel le Pradey. Absolutely love this one. We’ve stayed here multiple times. Location cannot be beat.
11th - Hotel Marais de Launay. Stayed here years ago but enjoyed it. On the edge of Le Marais.
6th - Hotel Jean Bart. Low cost and bare bones but clean and fantastic location.
Apartments:
My Maison Paris. An apartment rental company we found on Airbnb. They have multiple locations. We stayed at the Sentier location (2nd) and had a great experience.
Museums and Sites
Art:
The Louvre. My honest take: I don’t want to spend all day in the Louvre. I haven’t been in probably 15 years. My husband has never been, despite countless trips to Paris. Of course, the collection is jaw-dropping – but it will eat up a lot of your time and it is impossible to see the entire museum in one visit (trust me on this.) If you do visit the Louvre, reserve your ticket at least two months in advance to get the entry time you want. I do recommend walking around the courtyard, whether or not you plan to visit the museum.
L’Orangerie. My favorite. It is not too big and has impressive works such as Monet’s water lilies (breathtaking, every time.)
Musée d’Orsay. Specifically houses impressionist art. It’s delightful.
Musée Rodin. One of my favorites, on a nice day, and great for kids because much of it is in outdoor gardens.
Check out Grand Palais for current exhibitions. They can be incredible.
Centre Pompidou. For modern art lovers. (Currently closed for renovations.)
Fondation Louis Vuitton. I still haven’t been but have only heard great things.
History:
Les Invalides. This is where Napoleon is buried. Lots of military history and, surprising to myself, I really enjoy this museum!
Musée Carnavalet. Paris history museum. Obviously, I love it.
Musée de Cluny. A fun medieval history museum.
The Catacombs. I’ve never visited!
Sites:
Notre Dame. Similar to my thoughts on the Louvre, Notre Dame is an important monumentn and impressive to see. I do not find it worth the lines to go inside because simply taking in the exterior architecture is inspiring. That being said, I do want to visit the inside now that the post-fire renovation is complete.
Sainte Chapelle. Highly recommend buying tickets to go inside. The lines are worth it. The stainless glass windows are a spiritual experience.
Sacré Coeur. I’ve never been inside, but visiting to see the exterior and the incredible views of Paris are worth it.
Eiffel Tower. It really is remarkable to see up close. My children love going to the top, and I think it’s worth the line. Buy tickets in advance (tried to buy a month in advance this time and they were sold out!)
L’Arc de Triomphe. Not high on my list, but worth seeing if you are nearby.
Versailles. Worth it, but one-and-done, unless chateaux are really your thing.
Panthéon. One of my favorite buildings in Paris.
Opéra. Stunning and different from most other places on this list. A piece of Haussmann architectural history.
Eating in Paris
Everyone knows Paris for its gastronomy and eating there is an important part of the experience. The gamut runs from fine dining to street food. You will eat great food, and there is one experience you cannot miss: Le Pique-Nique. That is my top advice in Paris: Have a picnic.
A Picnic in Paris
For the picnic, go to any bakery and get “le pain traditionnel.” It is the best baguette. For other food, there are bodegas everywhere where you can buy small foods, such as rillettes, jam, and wine (make sure to buy a small cork screw if needed!) For larger groceries, there are Monoprix and Monop’ (the small version of monoprix), Carrefour, and Franprix.
My ideal picnic is: Baguette, jambon (ham), fromage, salade des carottes râpées, fresh fruit, and chocolate with hazelnuts. A nice souvenir or gift are Opinel pocket knives, sold in many shops, which come in handy for picnics. Laguiole knives are also a favorite. We collect them. Our favorite places to buy are the Laguiole shop on Île Saint-Louis and E. DEHILLERIN in the 1st arrondissement. If you do buy, make sure to put this in your checked luggage on your return home.
Here are my favorite places to picnic:
Any park, but specifically: Jardin de Luxembourg, les Tuileries, Place des Vosges, Parc des Buttes Chaumont, Park Monceau, Champ de Mars, and behind Les Invalides. Some of the best parks are the ones you stumble upon, like Jardin des Rosiers.
Along the Seine, specifically on the banks of Île de la Cité and Île Saint-Louis.
Street Food
Best places for street food are:
Le Marais (rue des Rosiers for amazing schwarma and falafel such as L’As du Falafel)
The Latin Quarter (especially rue St. André des Arts)
Marché des Enfants Rouge
Rue Montorgueil/Rue Tiquetonne/Rue St. Denis (behind the Étienne Marcel Metro station and south of Blvd. Bonne Nouvelle)
Montmartre
Any Traiteur Asiatique (get the Bo Bun…delicious)
Restaurants
The restaurant scene in Paris constantly evolves. A few of my favorite resources for finding great spots are Lindsey Tramuta (LINK), David Leibovitz (LINK), and Paris by Mouth (LINK). I’ve found great restaurants via Conde Nast Traveler and New York Times, too.
Here are a few of my favorites recently, in no specific order:
Perruche (must make reservation. Unbeatable rooftop view of Paris. Lunch is my favorite)
Breizh Cafe for crepes. Otherwise, any creperie along rue de la Gaïte in the Montparnasse area or in Montmartre. A note about crepes: They are not just sweet! A galette is a savory crepe. At a creperie, you have a galette, salad, and then sweet crepe for dessert. Must have apple cider (alcoholic, bubbly and cold, not hot cider like in the states.)
Chartier (extremely touristy but great for large groups; classic French)
If you’re young: Le Comptoir General and Rosa Bonheur
For a little adventure, Le Chalet des Îles in Bois de Boulogne. You ferry across the lake to access it. The kids love it!
For live jazz, Le Monk Taverne de Cluny on Sunday nights. You can eat there or at a restaurant nearby (lots of crêperies.) If La Famille Brunard is performing that night, you are very lucky.
Paris with Kids
Paris loves kids. Kids love Paris. We started taking our children at 18 months. I prioritize travel skills and adaptability for my kids. It builds their stamina and courage. A big part of travel is coaching them through it. Nothing irks me more than to be around adults who aren’t good travelers. That’s why we started young with our kids. Adaptability and resilience are key life skills and traveling is an effective teacher.
The travel days are hard, but once in Paris it is incredible to view the city through their eyes. The sights, the sounds, the tastes – my kids love being in Paris, even if we have nothing planned and only walk, eat, and visit parks.
When we go with our kids, we plan one “anchor” activity each day (such as a museum or excursion.) The rest of the day is spontaneous. We prioritize parks and street food. Bistrots and Brasseries are kid-friendly. Most of them have a kid’s menu of steak-hâché frites. For a very special treat, we love getting hot chocolate and pastries at Angelina (or any café/boulangerie/pastisserie (bakery).)
A few kid-friendly activities:
Jardin de Luxembourg – explore the park and rent toy boats at the fountain.
Carousel at the base of Sacré Coeur (bottom of the stairs by the gondola.)
Speaking of, take the gondola to Sacré Coeur, then explore Montmartre.
Eiffel Tower – what kid doesn’t love the Eiffel Tower?
Boat tour on the Seine.
L’Orangerie is my favorite art museum with kids because it’s not too big/doesn’t take too long for their attention spans.
Grand and Petit Palais can have cool immersive exhibitions. See what’s on show.
Le Marais is great for walking around because many of the streets are pedestrian, and the streets are so tight that cars can’t go fast anyway.
Shopping
Le Marais is my favorite neighborhood to shop, whether it’s clothing, gifts, packaged foods, or children’s toys. Rue Vieille du Temple, specifically. Saint Germain des Près (6th arrondissement) boasts plenty of wonderful boutiques as well. Visit any French pharmacy for beauty products. My favorite brands are Caudalie, Nuxe, and Avène.
Standout Specialty Shops in Paris:
Mariages Freres – Classic French teas. Visiting the shop is an olfactory experience.
Marin Montagut – Deserves all the hype.
Shakespeare & Co. – A landmark for literary types.
Vintage shops along rue de la Verrerie/rue du Roi de Sicile and le Marais in general
Booksellers along the Seine
Repetto shoes (locations all over the city)
Petit Bateau and Jacadi for kids clothing (locations all over the city)
Au Nain Bleu (children’s toys)
Bonhomme de Bois (children’s toys)
Pre-Travel Cultural Immersion
To get in the Paris mood, here are a few resources:
A Moveable Feast by Ernest Hemingway
The Paris Novel by Ruth Reichl
Midnight in Paris movie
La Vie en Rose movie
Amelie movie
Paris Je T’aime move
The Only Street in Paris by Elaine Sciolino
Markets of Paris by Dixon Long
Bon voyage
Paris is more than a place. It is a feeling. It is a state of existing. Paris invites us to simply be. What a gift, n’est pas? It is enough to simply be in Paris. Perhaps that is why more people visit Paris than anywhere else. Paris changes you. As Ernest Hemingway wrote, “wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.”
Tell me how your trip goes! If there’s anything I missed or if you have questions, ask away in the comments. I am so excited for you.
xo,
emilie
If you enjoy this work, please give it a ❤️ down below. That goes a long way in helping Finance That Feels reach new audiences (and gives me a huge moral boost!!) Thank you for being here.
DISCLAIMER
The opinions of Emilie Hill are solely her personal opinions and not necessarily the opinions of her employer. Social content provided by Emilie is for educational purposes only and does not constitute investment advice or an offer to sell or a solicitation to buy any security.
🩷🩷We had a lovely evening at Rosa Bonheur in Butte Chaumont a few years ago 🤗. It’s way past time to return.
Amazing! My family just booked a 36 hour stay in Paris for the end of summer (turned out the LEAST painful way to get back to the states from our tiny resort town is to take the train back to Paris) - thank you for this super-helpful guide!!